Wine tasting in the Douro Valley, Portugal, Fatima, Aveiro, Costa Nova, Belem, Fado, Sintra, Cascias, Alfama, Tram 28
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The Paris House, Sunday Guides, Fall 2025
Cover
Portugal
Wine Tasting Douro Valley
Spiritual Fatima
Aveiro Moliceiro Boats
Vibrant Costa Nova
Pedro’s Cocktail
Autumn’s Chicest Manicure
Nantucket Lightship Baskets
Buttery Apple Tart with a Maple Glaze
Fall Fashion Lakeside Cozy Style
In The Garden
Wedding Flowers
London Fashion Week
Table of Contents
1 Editor’s Letter
5 Map of Portugal
6 Porto
29 Douro Valley
43 Fatima
51 Aveiro
61 Costa Nova
73 Belem
85 Fado
96 Sintra
103 Cascais
110 Alfama
114 Tram 28
137 Flower Girl Poem
139 People We Meet Along the Way
142 Paris House Kitchen Recipe
149 Paris House Flowers & Events
166 The Paris House Book Club
173 Collecting
176 Paris House Boutique
194 Ask Gardener
197 Out and About
208 Sponsors / Advertisers
215 Testimonial
216 Joie de Vivre
217 Video: Cartoon
218 Sign Up for Our Newsletter
219 About The Paris House
Editor’s Letter
Michele Rosenthal
Follow me on Instagram @theparishouse
Hello and welcome to the delightful fall issue of Sunday Guides! We are thrilled to have you here as we dive into a world filled with travel tips, must-see sights, mouthwatering culinary experiences, scrumptious recipes, chic fashion trends, and local favorites from our vibrant "Out and About with Paris House" section. While travel is our central theme, our goal is to ignite your wanderlust and offer something special for everyone to enjoy. Don't forget that you can find a printed version of the guide on our website for easy access.
As I set out on a new adventure, I can’t help but feel enchanted by the familiar beauty of Portugal. The Sunday Guides in this stunning country are not only about places to explore, they are also a heartfelt journey through my own memories from past travels. Every destination highlighted is like a chapter in my travel diary, filled with amazing stories from around the globe, and I'm excited to share my reflections with you, dear readers!
In this issue, get ready to explore the breathtaking Douro Valley, the charming city of Aveiro, the colorful Costa Nova, the spiritual site of Fatima, and the bustling streets of Lisbon. We will also whisk you away to the dreamy towns of Sintra and Cascais, along with a trip to the majestic Cabo da Roca.
My first trip to Portugal was in 2018, and I had the pleasure of returning in May 2024 when I discovered the enchanting Douro Valley. Oh, the food! Traditional bacalhau, sardine season, and the iconic pastel de nata were simply heavenly! I stayed at a lovely Quinta surrounded by picturesque vineyards, with stunning architecture beautifully adorned with blue and white tiles. The warm-hearted locals were always eager to share smiles and stories, truly enriching my experience, while the richness of the wine made every moment even more unforgettable.
This adventure was partially a solo trip; when I arrived, I didn’t know a soul! Yet, I departed with a heart full of warmth and wonderful memories of all the friendly faces I met. It turned out to be more than just a trip. It was a profound experience of self-discovery. The world is filled with kind souls, and often, the most memorable travel experiences come from unexpected connections. For instance, I remember a local guide in the Douro Valley who shared fascinating stories about the region's history and culture, making the trip even more enriching.
This issue shines a spotlight on Portugal, especially Porto, the magnificent Douro Valley, Fatima, and Costa Nova. The Port wine and local cuisine are genuinely exceptional. With stunning panoramic views, serene boat rides on the river, and encounters with some of the warmest people you'll ever meet, Portugal is sure to capture your heart and draw you back time and again. The unique experiences in Portugal, from its rich history to its vibrant culture, await you, promising excitement and intrigue.
Fall truly brings us the simple pleasures we often long for. Picture this: a cozy wool sweater in autumn’s warm hues on a crisp morning, the sweet aroma of apple orchards, pumpkins scattered about, and picnics on tartan blankets against a backdrop of colorful mountains and shimmering lakes. Halloween costumes and leisurely drives through vibrant fall foliage are timeless delights that add joy to this beautiful season. It really is a breathtaking time of year!
For all you travel lovers, autumn is an exhilarating season! As the crowds begin to dwindle in Europe, the weather turns pleasantly cooler, inviting exploration. The beaches remain inviting, the sea is warm, and numerous sights and activities await discovery.
And for our party enthusiasts, we’ve packed this issue with floral themes and exciting events, alongside an Autumn beauty section showcasing the chicest nail designs, flawless skincare tips, and glossy hair ideas. Plus, we've curated a selection of fabulous Fall fashion looks that transition effortlessly from New York City to New England and beyond.
From delightful books to delectable apple desserts and so much more, we hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it all together! We are deeply grateful for your continued support and readership. Your presence in our journey is invaluable, and we thank you for being a part of it! Together, we'll continue to explore the world and all its wonders.
Get ready for more thrilling adventures in upcoming issues! We have a dreamy getaway planned that you absolutely won’t want to miss. We’re bursting with excitement to share details about this enchanting destination and the unique experiences we have lined up for you. Stay tuned for more and get ready to be thrilled!
We look forward to embarking on this journey with you.
Map: Liv Wan Illustrations
WHERE TO STAY IN PORTO - VERSE AND PROSE IN EVERY BREATH
Torel Palace, a 5-star boutique hotel, is a haven for those seeking inspiration in the heart of Porto, where perfection is effortlessly woven into every experience. Literature is the guiding light – each room and suite is a tribute to Portugal’s esteemed writers and poets, offering a timeless narrative to enrich your stay. The 1861 building, now home to the 5-star Torel Palace Porto, holds significant historical value. A twist of fate turned this architectural landmark into a literary-inspired retreat, where the beautiful facade, magnificent skylight, and intricate stucco ceilings create a story for the ages.
Torel Palace
The story unfolds with 24 unique rooms and suites, an inviting outdoor pool, and two distinct dining options: the delightful Florbela Pâtisserie and the prestigious MICHELIN Star restaurant BLIND. But it’s not just about elegant interiors and delicious food – it’s an experience akin to reading a classic novel. Nestled on Rua de Entreparedes, the hotel will cater to your every need, ensuring you’ll return time after time. Torel Palace Porto was awarded 1 MICHELIN Key in the first official selection in Portugal, recognizing its dedication to excellence, personalized service, and the art of hospitality.
https://www.torelpalaceporto.com/
Torel Palace Garden
Torel Palace Poolside Garden
Dine
Where you can devour more than just a great book. Immerse yourself in the refined flavors of our dining options – every taste is a chapter worth savoring. Our menu invites you to savor exquisite sweets crafted by pastry chef Eva Monteiro using top French techniques, and experience a MICHELIN Star tasting menu of 10 or 12 moments, with ever-changing surprises. The menu invites you to savor exquisite sweets crafted by pastry chef Eva Monteiro using top French techniques.
Torel Palace Patisserie
SERVICES
Wellness treatments in the Calla Wellness Suite, an outdoor pool, private yoga classes, 24-hour room service, and private parking – every aspect of service is a page-turner. The luxury hotel offers the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable stay in Porto.
Church of Saint Ildefonso
Destination
Located in the heart of the city, Torel Palace Porto offers exclusive access to Porto’s cultural and historic treasures, just around the corner from Batalha Square, where you will find the imposing São João National Theatre and the beautiful Santo Ildefonso Church, both within a 2-minute walk. A few steps further, discover the famous Santa Catarina Street, a paradise for shopping enthusiasts. As you wander along this vibrant street, take a moment to visit the legendary Majestic Café, a timeless gem that transports you to the elegance of the Roaring Twenties with its opulent and charming décor, inviting you to indulge in a truly luxurious experience.
Pasteis de Nata
Cachorrinho Sandwich
On the other side of the city’s dynamic energy, you’ll encounter the Bolhão Market, where the true spirit of Porto comes alive. Here, you can explore a rich tapestry of local flavors, from freshly caught seafood to the finest produce from the region’s gardens. The market’s picturesque stalls also offer traditional sweets, artisanal cheeses, and handcrafted liqueurs, providing an authentic taste of Porto’s gastronomic heritage. Whether you seek timeless elegance or the true spirit of Porto, the neighborhood around Torel Palace Porto offers a perfect blend of both, ensuring every desire is fulfilled.
Torre dos Clérigos
Da Ordem do Terço
Jardins do Palácio de Cristal
Douro Valley
The Douro Valley is famous for its breathtaking terraced gardens, unique bridges and world-renowned vineyards, each with a rich history of crafting exquisite Port wines. We’ll start our journey from the vibrant city of Porto, making a lovely stop for coffee and pastries at a cozy café, where the views will truly take your breath away.
One of the highlights will be our visit to Croft Vineyard, where you'll enjoy an engaging tour and a special tasting experience that promises to be memorable. We’ll also make several other delightful stops along the way!
As the day winds down, our small group will gather for a wonderful dinner at Douro Oven, a delightful local restaurant with panoramic views that will make your evening truly magical.
Food Highlights:
- Fresh local fish with delicious rice and potatoes
- A variety of exquisite wines Val Moreira and ports
Fun Fact:
Did you know that Portugal produces half of the world’s cork? Let us plan the perfect itinerary where you will immerse yourself in the stunning beauty and rich flavors of this extraordinary region!
The famous terraced vineyards of the Douro Valley
Our intimate group had the exclusive opportunity to dine at Douro Oven, a charming local restaurant with breathtaking views, making our experience truly unique.
Food Notes:
Whole served fish local with rice & potatoes
Various wines & ports
2nd vineyard - Val Moreira
Interesting Fact:
Portugal produces half of the world's cork.
Our Lady of Fátima
Our Lady of Fátima, known in Portuguese as Nossa Senhora de Fátima, is an iconic and beloved title for Mary, the mother of Jesus Christ. This designation originates from a series of extraordinary apparitions that occurred in 1917 at Cova da Iria, located in the small town of Fátima, Portugal. During these significant events, three young shepherd children—Lúcia dos Santos, along with her cousins Francisco and Jacinta Marto—received messages from the Virgin Mary that would profoundly transform their lives and impact the Roman Catholic Church.
In the spring and summer of 1917, these children reported experiencing visions of a beautiful lady, dressed in white, who spoke to them and conveyed critical spiritual messages. The apparitions occurred on the 13th of each month, drawing attention from local villagers and eventually pilgrims from around the world. Mary’s messages, urgent and compelling, included calls for prayer, penance, and the consecration of Russia to her Immaculate Heart. The children also received prophetic visions, including a glimpse of hell and the prediction of the end of World War I and the onset of World War II.
The importance of these apparitions and the messages conveyed were subsequently recognized officially by the Catholic Church. In 1930, Bishop José Alves Correia da Silva of Leiria-Fátima declared the events worthy of belief, further cementing Our Lady of Fátima’s status within the Catholic faith.
The devotion surrounding these apparitions has grown exponentially over the years, fostering a deep sense of connection among millions of believers across generations. Pilgrimages to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Fátima have become a vital aspect of spiritual life for many, embodying themes of hope in the face of adversity, love for the Virgin Mary, and unwavering faith in the power of prayer. The remarkable story of Fátima continues to inspire and resonate with people, reminding them of the power of belief and the importance of prayer in their daily lives.
Aveiro
Embark on an adventure to Aveiro, the captivating "Venice of Portugal," a city that stands out with its unique features, such as picturesque canals and vibrant moliceiro boats. The buzzing energy from its dynamic university, combined with nearby coastal treasures like the stunning striped houses of Costa Nova, makes Aveiro a must-visit destination. Whether you prefer scenic boat tours, strolls through charming streets, or savoring local delights like ovos moles, Aveiro guarantees unforgettable memories!
What to See and Do
Canal Tours, Dive into the enchantment of a traditional moliceiro boat tour through the delightful canals and soak in the beauty surrounding you.
Be sure to explore the nearby beach town of Costa Nova, renowned for its vibrant, striped fishermen's houses that add a unique flair to your visit.
Art Nouveau, immerse yourself in the stunning Art Nouveau architecture that has earned Aveiro its reputation as Portugal's "city-museum of Art Nouveau."
Museums, Discover the rich history at the Aveiro Museum, housed in a former convent, or visit the dedicated Art Nouveau Museum for a deeper insight.
Aveiro is a paradise for food enthusiasts, offering unique culinary experiences like ovos moles, an exquisite pastry crafted from egg yolks and sugar, delightfully shaped like sea creatures. This is just one of the many culinary gems waiting for you in Aveiro!
Salt Flats: Explore the fascinating landscape and cultural significance of the nearby salt flats that contribute to Aveiro's unique charm.
Boat Ride,Moliceiro Experience, Ria de Aveiro, Viva a Ria
Getting there
Reaching Aveiro is straightforward and makes for a fantastic day trip from Porto, just 70 km to the south.
By Train, enjoy a direct train ride from Porto, which takes only about an hour, making your journey both easy and enjoyable.
By Car, renting a car allows you the freedom to uncover the gorgeous surrounding areas at your own pace.
Best Time to Visit:
Spring and Early Autumn. These seasons offer delightful weather and fewer crowds—ideal for a leisurely exploration. Summer: Experience the vibrant atmosphere and warm temperatures, and beautiful days at the beach.
Winter, enjoy a serene and mild getaway.
Prepare for an unforgettable experience in Aveiro, where you can immerse yourself in a delightful mix of culture, stunning scenery, and mouthwatering treats!
Costa Nova
Welcome to the enchanting beachside town of Costa Nova, where the salty Atlantic breeze invigorates your spirit and picturesque scenery invites you to embrace adventure. The vibrant striped houses, known as Palheiros, line the waterfront streets, each one a colorful beacon of joy reflecting in the shimmering waters of the Ria de Aveiro lagoon.
This coastal gem enchants your heart, making it feel like you’ve stepped into a living postcard. These iconic homes, once humble wooden huts for local fishermen, have evolved into cherished landmarks that bring extraordinary color to the landscape, even on the foggiest days. They embody the essence of Costa Nova, drawing travelers from around the world to soak in their warmth and charm.
The Atlantic ocean side of Costa Nova
Painted striped Palheiros in cheerful colors, delight tourists from around the world in this charming town.
As you stroll along the lagoon, a serene village ambiance envelops you, encouraging relaxation and connection. Palm trees swaying along with the gentle sound of waves create a soothing backdrop, inviting you to unwind. Indulge in the local culinary delights at inviting restaurants, where the freshest seafood awaits to tantalize your taste buds.
During my visit, experiencing the local flavor during sardine season was a moment of sheer joy and unforgettable delight! Just a short walk lies the magnificent Atlantic Ocean, where golden sands stretch endlessly, inviting you to explore and find solace in nature’s embrace. With its captivating shoreline, charming Palheiros, and delectable cuisine, Costa Nova inspires you to create lasting memories that will enrich your spirit and fill your heart with wonder. Embrace this vibrant treasure and let its beauty guide your journey!
Food Notes:
Lunch at Marisqueira restaurant in Costa Nova, surrounded by the most charming striped colorful houses by the lagoon.
Cheeses & bread
Pepsi and local beer
Codfish and beans
Bread with sardine pâté and tuna pâte
Seafood in the most delicious broth
Belém
Belém, a district in Lisbon, is a place steeped in history. Located by the sea, it's where the Tagus River meets the Atlantic, and where many ships once set sail to explore the world. Belém is a living testament to those times, and a visit to this part of Lisbon is like stepping back in time to the era of the great explorers.
Belém Tower
It is a 16th-century fortification in Lisbon that served as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a gateway to Lisbon. This tower symbolizes Portugal's maritime and colonial power in early modern Europe. It was built at the height of the Portuguese Renaissance and is a prominent example of the Portuguese Manueline style. It also incorporates other architectural styles, such as the minarets inspired by Moorish architecture. The structure was built from limestone. The tower was built on a small island in the Tagus River near Lisbon. In 1983, the tower became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Discoveries Monument
The Discoveries Monument, honored in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of the death of Explorer Prince Henry the Navigator, remains a powerful symbol of the Portuguese terra of adventure, discovery, and exploration. The monument in the shape of a ship, located on the waterfront, honors Belém's important role in the modern world. The monument also hosts exciting exhibitions, highlighting different elements of exploration. Enjoy an elevator to the top for stunning views of Belém's monuments.
Indulge in the local delicacy of delicious seafood while soaking in the spectacular views of the Discoveries Monument. This unique experience perfectly combines the rich local cuisine with the historical sightseeing of Belém. And don't miss the chance to explore the local craft markets, where you can find unique items to bring home as souvenirs of your visit to Belém.
Discover the Unique Charm of the Carmo Ruins and Archaeological Museum
Perched upon the ancient remnants of the old Church of Santa Maria do Carmo, a Gothic masterpiece that dates back to 1389, founded by D. Nuno Álvares Pereira, the Carmo Ruins command a sense of awe and respect.
Since its establishment in 1864, the Carmo Ruins and Archaeological Museum has been a custodian of history, housing and showcasing priceless pieces from the ruins, particularly from monastic houses. These artifacts are of significant historical, art, and archeological importance.
Fado
Fado's history is deeply rooted in Portuguese culture, originating in Lisbon. Its soulful, sad, and profoundly beautiful lyrics and instruments have the power not just to stir your emotions, but to move you deeply, leaving you with a heart filled with compassion and a profound connection to the Portuguese soul.
At Adega Machado, nestled in the lively Bairro Alto of Lisbon, we were treated to a one-of-a-kind experience. Here, a captivating Fado performance was seamlessly woven into a delightful dining experience, creating a memory that will linger long after the last note has faded.
For an unforgettable Fado experience and the best dining recommendations, meticulous planning is key. Consult with your travel planner, scour online reviews, and seek advice from your hotel concierge. This preparation will ensure you're well-informed and ready to embark on your cultural journey in Lisbon.
“The "Adega Machado" who owes great part of its existence to the founding couple, the fado singer Maria de Lurdes Machado and her husband the composer and guitarist Armando Machado, to whom the present Owners return this historic legacy, conquered great notoriety and respect in the Fado environment.
On July 2012, 75 years after being established, the famous "Adega Machado" reopens in one of the busiest streets of the Bairro Alto.
Two legends from Fado, Amália Rodrigues and Alfredo Marceneiro, whose voices conquered a huge eternal respect, have here a special homage through a considerable number of pictures in all the renewed Adega Machado. From a simple tavern became a cherished house of fado, and from the successive interventions in the rooms resulted a singular construction.
The Gastronomy is based on the Portuguese traditional cuisine with innovation, and the wine-cellar has a large selection from the best wine regions of Portugal.
The show of Fado has excellent performers, Singers and Guitar Players of the new generation offering modernity within tradition.
THE ADEGA MACHADO KEEPS SECRETS THAT ARE PUT INTO SONG”
Stay
We stayed at As Janelas Verdes, member of Heritage Hotels of Europe.
Costelo de S. Jorge
Built in the 11th Century during the Moorish period. In the 13th Century, the Portuguese Kings transported the Costelo de S. Jorge into a royal palace. The castle overlooks the historical center of Lisbon.
Cabo da Roca
Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of the European continent, nestled at the very end of the Serra de Sintra, is a geographical marvel that piques the curiosity of all who visit. Standing at this unique spot, you'll feel the thrill of being at the edge of Europe, a place that truly encapsulates the essence of Portugal.
As you venture out, the historic Lighthouse, a towering structure that has guided ships since 1772, immediately captures your attention. This beacon of light, steeped in history, connects you to the maritime past of the region. The vast ocean, best viewed from the Cruzeiro area, then becomes the focal point of your fascination.
The Cabo da Roca is a significant and inspiring place. It is among the 800 geographical points worldwide dedicated to Peace since 1989, through the Sri Chinmoy Peace Blossoms programme, a global initiative promoting Peace and harmony by dedicating natural landmarks to Peace.
Cabo da Roca's rich biology is a testament to its unique location. The armeria pseudarmeria, a plant with delicate white flowers, thrives here, thanks to the prevailing winds from the north and north-west, laden with sea moisture and frequent fogs.
The visitor can purchase a certificate from the local tourist office to serve as proof of their visit to this appealing place. Whether covered in mist or bathed in wonderful sunshine, what Camões called the point where the 'land ends and the sea begins 'is a sight to behold.
Sintra
The Park of Pena, a natural environment of rare beauty and significant scientific importance, is a project of landscape transformation. It has turned a once barren Hill into an arboretum that integrates several historic gardens, showcasing the site's unique natural value.
Spanning almost eighty-five hectares, the Park of Pena is a vast expanse of exceptional geological and climatic conditions, offering a grand and diverse natural landscape to explore.
The Palace of Pena
The Park and the Palace of Pena are the finest examples of nineteenth-century Portuguese Romanticism and the integration of natural and built heritage. They constitute the most essential part of the Cultural Landscape of Sintra's World Heritage site. (Excerpts from Parques de Sintra)
https://www.parquesdesintra.pt/en/
Pena Palace
Cascais
Cascais, The Enchanting Coastal Gem
Discover the unique allure of Cascais, a captivating coastal resort town in Portugal, nestled just west of Lisbon. Renowned for its stunning beaches and vibrant historic center, this charming village was once the favored summer retreat of the Portuguese royal family—a picturesque 40-minute train ride from Lisbon. Immerse yourself in the perfect blend of sandy beaches, dramatic cliffs, and a lively atmosphere rich in maritime and aristocratic heritage.
What to Explore
Prepare to be spoiled for choice in Cascais. Whether you're basking in the sun on the beautiful beaches of the 'Portuguese Riviera,' or seeking the adrenaline rush of the wild surf spots within the stunning Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, the options are endless. The adventure of a lifetime is just waiting for you.
Boca do Inferno, an awe-inspiring cliff formation where the Atlantic has sculpted a remarkable natural arch, is just one of the many breathtaking sights you'll encounter.
Step back in time as you wander through the charming Historic Center in the old town, where magnificent 19th-century villas stand alongside the remarkable 15th-century Cascais Castle and the historic Citadel Palace. Each building is a testament to the rich history of this town.
Immerse yourself in local culture at the Paula Rego House of Stories or explore museums housed in historic mansions that honor the town's rich seafaring history. Don't miss the lively marina, brimming with exciting events that reflect the town's deep maritime roots.
Whether you're planning a delightful day trip from Lisbon or an enriching holiday, Cascais truly has something for everyone. This enchanting town beautifully combines its royal history with a modern resort atmosphere, framed by stunning beaches and the breathtaking Sintra mountains. Make Cascais your next destination for an unforgettable adventure!
Barrio Alto, A trendy neighborhood known for its vibrant nightlife, restaurants, and bars.
Alfama, The oldest neighborhood in Lisbon, characterized by narrow, winding streets, traditional Fado houses, and a more historic atmosphere.
Santos-o-Velho is a trendy, quiet neighborhood. Visit The Ancient Art Museum, take photos in front of the gorgeous, quintessential blue and white Portuguese tiles, visit the famous bakeries for pastries and coffee, and shop for fashionable items for your home and wardrobe.
Shop
Azulegos Hand Made Tiles
Sintra Portugal
Alfama
Castelo de São Jorge
Shopping for Tile
Tram 28
Tram 28 is not just a mode of transportation; it's a unique experience that encapsulates the charm and history of Lisbon. The journey takes you back in time, traversing hills and medieval streets in vintage trams from the 1930s, a rare sight in today's public transportation. These iconic vehicles pass by major attractions, making it a must-do experience recommended by guidebooks. Here’s what you need to know before you hop on:
Line 28 of Lisbon's iconic trams, a living testament to the city's history, was inaugurated in 1914. Today, it has a 7km (4.5 miles) route between Martim Moniz Square and Prazeres, by the neighborhood of Campo de Ourique (at night, after 9:30 pm, it terminates a few stops before, by the basilica of Estrela).
It survived the rise of the automobile and of the bus by being the best way to squeeze through the narrow streets and corners of the older districts, for being an attractive tourist route, and for its clean energy. It's now an essential part of Lisbon's life, and the city would lose part of its soul without the constant rattling of these singular yellow "boxes."
Tram 28 with Santa Catarina Church and the dome of Basílica da Estrela in the background
The 28 uses about fifty turn-of-the-century cars, built in wood, with a capacity for 20 seating and 38 standing passengers (although many more cram in).
Tram 28 Schedule
The average intervals between vehicles are 9 to 12 minutes, ensuring a convenient and reliable service. The entire trip takes between 48 minutes and one hour (at a maximum speed of 50km per hour), depending on the obstacles (traffic and double-parked cars) along the way. At major stops, digital information boards display the time remaining for the next tram, providing you with a sense of reassurance and confidence in your travel plans.
Tram 28 passing by Santa Catarina Church
The first 28 starts the day just before 6 am, and the last one departs shortly after midnight on weekdays and at 11 pm on weekends. It’s best avoided from mid-morning to evening, when it’s always packed, so plan your ride for the early morning or after the evening rush hour. For a better chance of getting a seat, board it at its starting point in Martim Moniz. If standing, hold on tight, as breaks are sharp. Be mindful of pickpockets, especially during peak hours and at crowded stops, to ensure your journey is secure and enjoyable.
During your journey, you'll get up close to the tiles covering Alfama's façades, will admire views of the city's oldest monuments framed by the narrow streets, will pass by other trams going in the opposite direction, and will notice details that you'd otherwise overlook. Major attractions on the route include several viewpoints and iconic churches (see the major stops below).
Tram 28 in São Bento
Sightseeing Tram
In the past, it was recommended that tourists disembark at every beautiful spot and wait for the next tram to continue their journey. However, with the growing number of tourists in Lisbon, the 28 tram should no longer be used for sightseeing. The vehicles are always packed, and there are always long lines of tourists waiting at the stops, so for a hop-on-hop-off experience, you should take an official sightseeing tram, which follows the same route and always guarantees a seat (also consider the other hop-on-hop-off tours).
Tram 28 at the Portas do Sol viewpoint in Alfama
Major Tram 28 Stops
There are several budget and mid-range hotels in the vicinity, making it a convenient area to stay for tourists. The area is a little shabby, but there’s a fine view of the castle up on the hill.
Tram 28's stop in Praça Martim Moniz, across from Hotel Mundial Graça
About 12 minutes after its departure point in Martim Moniz, tram 28 reaches this hilltop stop. In the vicinity, you may visit some of Lisbon’s most beloved viewpoints — Miradouro da Graça, Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, and Miradouro do Jardim da Cerca da Graça— as well as the church and convent of Graça.
Cç. S. Vicente (Calçada de São Vicente)
This stop, across from the Monastery of St. Vincent, is just below Graça. In addition to the monastery, you may visit the National Pantheon and the flea market (which takes place on Tuesdays and Saturdays) from here.
Lg. Portas Sol (Largo das Portas do Sol)
This is your stop if you want to visit the castle. It’s a terrace opening to one of the best views over old Lisbon (a viewpoint called Miradouro das Portas do Sol), and from here you may go down a series of steps into the maze of streets of the ancient Alfama neighborhood. Here is also the Museum of Decorative Arts, while around the corner is another viewpoint, the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, and the cobbled lane that leads to the castle.
Sé
This is the stop in front of the cathedral. Across from it is St. Anthony Church, while to the left is the Aljube Museum and the remains of the Roman Theater.
R. Conceição (Rua da Conceição)
This is the stop for Baixa, or downtown. Several attractions are within walking distance from here, such as Lisbon’s main pedestrian shopping street (Rua Augusta), the Rua Augusta Arch, the MuDe Design Museum, Praça do Comércio (the city’s grandest square), and the Money Museum.
Pç. Luís Camões (Praça Luís de Camões)
The stop for the shopping streets of Chiado and the bars and restaurants of Bairro Alto. From here, you may also walk to the Bica funicular, Miradouro de Santa Catarina, and the church of Santa Catarina.
Estrela
Stop by one of Lisbon’s most beautiful landmarks, the Basilica of Estrela. Across from it is also one of the city’s most pleasant parks, the Jardim da Estrela, which is a wonderful place to relax after a day of sightseeing.
Campo Ourique (Prazeres)
The last stop is by a monumental cemetery in the neighborhood of Campo de Ourique. Many tourists find that to be quite an interesting attraction, while others walk from there to the popular neighborhood market, Mercado de Campo de Ourique, which has a good food hall. This is also the starting point for the journey back to the city center.
Tram 28 passing by the Largo Academia das Belas Artes stop in Chiado
Insider Tip
Those who want to experience a tram ride without sightseeing should take tram 24 instead. It uses the identical vintage vehicles, but it’s never crowded. It doesn’t go through the narrow streets of the old town, but still goes past the elegant neighborhood of Príncipe Real.
Tram 28 passing by the cathedral
Tram 28 Tickets and Fares
Tickets are €3.20 for a single trip, and may be purchased from the driver (you may pay with cash to the driver or use a debit card by tapping it on the reader). However, most passengers use prepaid cards, including tourists who buy the Lisboa Card(recommended for the free rides it offers, and to avoid having to get a ticket each time you board). There is also a 24-hour public transport ticket, sold at any metro station, for €7.00 (with it, you may ride not just the 28, but all trams, buses, and the metro).
Upon entering (always through the front door), validate your ticket by scanning it on the machine behind the driver.
Pickpockets on Tram 28
As you stand or step on and off the tram, watch your wallet and other possessions, since, as a major tourist attraction, the 28 is a favorite target of pickpockets who easily blend in with tourists (no, not all passengers carrying maps and cameras are actual tourists). Most pickpockets are from Eastern Europe, but don’t expect all of them to share the same ethnic features, and not all passengers with those features are pickpockets. Use your common sense precautions.
Accommodation on the Tram 28 Route
CHIADO CAMÕES APARTMENTS
Chiado Square is one of tram 28’s main stops and is overlooked by elegant apartments in a tiled 18th-century building that has been completely renovated. The apartments have one or two bedrooms, accommodating between 4 and 6 guests. They feature marble bathrooms and kitchenettes with a dishwasher and a washing machine. If you plan to stay in Lisbon for several days, this is an excellent choice.
CHIADO SQUARE APARTMENTS
Tram 28 stops right at the door of these contemporary apartments. They face the elegant architecture and beautifully designed pavements of the Chiado district, and one of the duplexes includes a terrace with a table, allowing you to dine with a view. They accommodate four to six people and have one or two bedrooms.
BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL
Named after the 16th-century neighborhood found across the square (Camões Square, where tram 28 stops), this boutique hotel has one of Lisbon’s favorite rooftop bars. Here you can eat or drink with a river view, while the rooms are tastefully designed, using original dark wood furniture, in classic and contemporary style.
MEMMO ALFAMA
Hidden behind the cathedral, around the corner from tram 28’s tracks, this hotel offers the best view of old Lisbon from some of the rooms and especially from the terrace with a small pool and a wine bar. Despite the historic location, the interior is all about contemporary design. It’s recommended for couples.
CONVENTO DO SALVADOR
It’s rated three stars but offers a much superior service. Highly rated, it’s in the heart of Alfama, close to the beautiful Portas do Sol viewpoint and by one of the stops of tram 28. It occupies a former convent built in 1392, but the interior is decorated with contemporary art by Portuguese artists. Some of the rooms have a river view. It’s an excellent value, perfect if you’re on a budget.
SANTIAGO DE ALFAMA HOTEL
Tram 28 stops just steps from this hotel, located next to the church where Christopher Columbus married his Portuguese wife. It’s just a few feet from the castle, and some of the 19 rooms overlook Alfama’s rooftops. Facilities include a restaurant with outdoor seating, a “beauty bar”, and a shop with Portuguese products. It’s very romantic, ideally located for the best sunrise views in the city.
VINCCI ALFAMA HOTEL
It’s in the maze of Alfama, but just a few feet from tram 28’s tracks and one of its stops. The neighborhood has a village atmosphere, offering more peace than downtown. There are several attractions within walking distance, including the São Vicente Monastery, the flea market, and the castle. The 18th-century building is divided into 22 rooms in contemporary style. Rated four stars, it includes a restaurant and a wine bar.
1908 LISBOA HOTEL
The name refers to the year when the monumental building was erected. Completely renovated in 2017, it preserves the original Art Nouveau architecture. Inside, it mixes vintage and minimalist design. The trendy restaurant with outdoor seating features a piece by prominent Lisbon street artist Bordalo II. It’s by the Martim Moniz terminal of tram 28.
HOTEL MUNDIAL
Tram 28 starts or ends its journey outside this hotel in Martim Moniz Square. Opened in 1958, its modern architecture contrasts with the mostly ancient neighborhood. Its best feature is the rooftop bar, which offers a view of the castle and over downtown. There are also views from the restaurant on the top floor and from many of the rooms facing the square.
WC BY THE BEAUTIQUE HOTELS
Tram 28 passes by this hotel with a very original design – the bathrooms are a complete inspiration! You’re welcomed by bathtubs at the reception, the walls of the hallways simulate water falling in a shower, and the rooms are decorated with tiles, mirrors, and a bathtub by the beds.
Adapted from Lisbon Portugal Tourism
Stay tuned for more updates on Portugal coming soon!!!!!
Flower Girl Adventures in Portugal Poem
Flower Girl travelled to Portugal to take in all the sights
She visited castles once protected by handsome knights
Toured archeological ruins where modern mingled with ancient
The designs and colors looked like a painting
She stopped for a pastry at a café tiled in blue and white
A romantic spot to read a book or to meet your date at night
She took Tram 28 up to Alfama
Looked out at the view
Everything was ancient; to her, it was brand new
She toured Belém Castle and had lunch near the explorers
She drank sangria, ate fresh octopus, and people-watched for hours
Traveling up windy roads to Sintra to reach Pena Palace
Where local wine was served in an ornate silver chalice
She enjoyed a Fado performance at a restaurant in Lisbon. It was a little jewel that was hidden
Fresh dinner was served, bought at the Mercado
Then off to the Bairro Alto, high up in the city
View of the pastel houses below, which were colorful and pretty
Flower Girl boarded her plane and flew back to the city
Where she will plan new adventures and write something witty
People We Meet Along The Way
Last October, my husband, our dog Ernie, and I went on vacation to Cape May, New Jersey, a stunning beach in our home state. During our stay, we met Lisa, her mother, and their dog, and we quickly became acquainted. They are adorable and two of the kindest women you will meet. We've stayed in touch, and recently we all met at Terrain in Pennsylvania. The group included Lisa, her friend Ray, Megan, my husband, and me. We had a 'meet and greet dinner'. I love meeting people on my adventures along the way. In this issue, we are excited to share Lisa's business, Mom Mom's Cottage Cookies.
Lisa's Story:
Baking was more than a hobby for my mom. She poured her love and care into making seasonal sugar cookies for her grandchildren. As my son was growing up, she would make delicious glazed sugar cookies for his whole class. Three years ago, my mom was diagnosed with Alzheimer's disease. This heartbreaking news inspired me to start something to honor her. I embarked on a journey to start a small batch and homemade cookie company, Mom Mom's Cottage Cookies. Currently, I sell them at Volume One Hair Salon and VOLO Boutique in Doylestown, PA, where they have become a beloved part of the community. Try some tasty treats and join our community.
https://www.facebook.com/share/16FS1DCF2i/?mibextid=wwXIfr
mmccookies@gmail.com
PARIS HOUSE KITCHEN
Homemade Apple Cider Glazed Dumplings
Our apple dumplings are one of my family and friends favorite Autumn dessert I make!
We use Dufour puff pastry, local apples & local apple cider. I live in the countryside of New Jersey with several wonderful farms & cider mills.
If you have questions on any of our recipes please feel free to email us.
Recipe:
Core apples (we typically make 6 dumplings)
Add a small Pat of salted butter & 1 heaping tablespoon of light brown sugar
Add a very small pinch of ground cinnamon
Roll out thawed Dufour puff pastry
Wrap each apple
We typically can make 4 dumplings per one sheet of puff pastry
Bake in pre heated oven, check around 20 minutes so they don’t over brown
Cool and add icing
Apple cider icing:
Combine
2 tablespoons apple cider
1 cup confectionary sugar
1 tablespoon of heavy cream
(You can easily double the icing- add more apple cider or more powdered sugar to get the consistency you want)
Serve with scope vanilla ice cream
Preheat over to 400 degrees (all ovens are different so be careful not to burn or overcook your dumplings. We used an overproof ceramic casserole dish to bake in. We only put 4 dumplings per baking dish as to NOT overcrowd them and allow them for to puff up into a beautifully delicious buttery dessert.
*** Please note the buttery brown sugar filling will not make your puff pastry soggy & will be incredible while warm melting into the side of vanilla ice cream. You can certainly omit that but it’s what makes these delicate pastries more unique, mouthwatering & irresistible!
Elegant Apple Tart
DIY Pedro’s Cocktail
Pedro’s Cocktail
In his words:
Using A Wide glass: 1portion of rose port, 2 portions of brut champagne, one ball of tangerine ice cream and drink it with a spoon.
Paris House Flowers & Events CREATIVE MAKEUP
Creative Makeup & Photography, Christen Holly Photography
Fashion Styling & Production, The Paris House
Paris House Events
Photography, Brianne Daul
Styled by Paris House
Wedding Flowers
Photography, Stephanie Turci
Location, Black Oak Golf Club
Bride, Courtney Armbruster
The Paris House Book Club
Maine House I and II
Maura McEvoy, Basha Burwell, and Kathleen Hackett
“The authors of the highly successful The Maine House, fueled by an unwavering passion for Maine's unique architecture, continue their mission to document and celebrate the authentic Maine houses of their childhoods—a Maine that is at risk of disappearing.
"The Maine House [shows] us the dignity and aching beauty, in preserving Maine's quirky architectural past."—Maine Homes by Down East”
When The Maine House was published in 2021, its influence extended far beyond the state of Maine. The book resonated on a global scale, with over four printings and distribution worldwide. It was a rallying cry, as one of dozens of reviews perfectly summarized, crafting a plea to preserve a living history that belongs to individuals, families, and states; a visual call to recognize these homey structures and others like them as 'extraordinary gifts.'
The Maine House II, a testament to the authors' mission, goes beyond their initial cry of despair. Through 30 homes—inland, inshore, and on islands—Maura McEvoy, Basha Burwell, and Kathleen Hackett not only highlight the beauty and importance of preservation, restoration, thoughtful renovation, and low-impact living but also present a diverse range of homes that are sure to pique your interest and inspire you to explore Maine's rich architectural heritage.
From visionaries who saw home in a post-and-beam barn, a lighthouse, a former hotel, and a boat shed to families resolutely leaving generational homes largely untouched (some continuing to live off the grid) and still others honoring vernacular architecture by living with it in surprising ways, The Maine House II captures the myriad ways one can live in this singular place—in the present—while preserving the past and ensuring its future. (article from Amazon, re-edited by Paris House for Sunday Guides)
Stonewall Kitchens, Favorites
I have cooked from this cookbook for many many years. Whether you are an experienced cook who knows your way around the kitchen or just getting started, you will find many delicious fresh easy recipes that will take you from season to season and bring joy to your table.
The Book Club Dinner Party
Audio
Daisy Jones and The Sixes by Taylor Jenkins Reid
I loved listening to Daisy Jones and The Sixes, a whirlwind delightful book that is centered in L.A. in the late 60’s. A fun audiobook to pass the time while driving on a roadtrip or in the kitchen cleaning up after dinner. It was fun and fast paced, filled with well descriptive fashion in a vibrant impulsive Los Angeles with the ubiquitous sex, drugs and rock n roll! I think you will enjoy it too.
Binge Watch
My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante
Collecting
Vintage French Textiles
Reupholstering in vintage French brocade fabric not only can give a fresh, modern take but also adds a touch of tradition to your space. Repurposing fabrics is a great way to add a unique, one-of-a-kind design to a room, creating a perfect blend of modernity and history.
The shop owner acquired this unique vintage fabric many years ago at a textile show, possibly originating from the Lyon region of France, an area renowned for its exquisite textiles.
Designed in a French heavy satiny silk brocade, tone on tone, weaved feuillages (foliage) motifs!
Nantucket Lightship Baskets
A few years ago, I styled models on India Street in Nantucket, where I was loaned an antique Nantucket Lightship Basket, possibly dating back to the 1800s, for the photoshoot. It remains one of my favorite shoots I have styled. The basket, rooted deep in American history, culture, and timeless style, added the perfect touch to our editorial.
Lightship baskets, made from rattan and wood, have a rich history that dates back to the mid-1800s on the American Shoal lightships. The craft of basket weaving, which began even earlier on whaling ships, was a pastime for Captain Thomas S. James and his crew until the government forbade it. However, the tradition continued on land, and in the 1940s, it was further developed by José Fermoso Reyes, a Harvard University graduate. Reyes designed lids and adorned them with various motifs, such as ivory whales. The art of basket weaving on the island of Nantucket is a testament to the enduring American heritage. The ultimate accessory on the Island of Nantucket is sporting a Lightship Basket/Handbag over a designer bag, and we absolutely love it!
Autumn Beauty
Styled by Paris House
Sightseeing In Portugal
Wine Tasting Douro Valley
Dorset, Vermont
Lakeside Living
London Fashion Week
Cliveden House High Tea
Cotswolds
Out for Cocktails
The New England Getaway
Maine Cottage
Montreal
Salem, MA
The Boathouse, NYC
Autumn Entertaining
Halloween
In the Garden with Paris House - Ask Gardener
Fall Gardening
Autumn is the perfect time to plant bulbs for a beautiful spring garden. We love shopping from Eden Brothers, White Flower Farm, Jackson and Perkins, and more. Read our Beginner’s Guide to Planting a Rose Garden
Ask Gardener, The Fall Garden Edit, how to make the most of the Autumn Garden. Don’t Throw in the ‘Trowel’ Just Yet.
As the long, hot days of Summer come to an end, we may find ourselves grabbing a cozy sweater and a hot cup of tea as we head out to see the last of our garden’s bounty. By this time, many Gardeners are usually tired after a long season digging in the dirt and battling Mother Nature, and may feel it is time to 'Throw in the trowel’ and call it a day until Spring comes around once again. As a lifelong Gardener, I have found this time of the year to be one of the most joyous and colorful times in our gardens. After all, it is much cooler, making our time spent working in the garden much easier and enjoyable, not to mention the delicious aroma of homemade pies, warm cider donuts, fruit ripe on the trees, and hot mulled drinks makes me want to throw open the French doors, grab some wool blankets, light an outdoor fire, and spend time in the garden sipping sparkling Poire Granit all evening with family and friends. All the more reason to keep your garden growing and going strong and beautiful until the first hard frost hits and the Winter garden takes shape.
The zone you live in determines what you can grow during the Autumn months, as a zone 6A gardener here in the Northeast, I was accustomed to mums and pumpkins being the main ‘stars’ of the Autumn garden. Over the years, I have discovered many more fall treasures to add, including hardy perennials that have returned each year. I love to walk out in my garden and gather vegetables, fruit, flowers, and herbs to create an enchanting Autumn centerpiece for both indoors and out.
Here are some of my favorite Autumn Flowers:
Chrysanthemums come in a wide variety of colors to complement all gardens.
Asters I adore these hardy flowers, especially their purple hues.
Pumpkins, Jack -Be -Littles, and Gourds- I adore all varieties, especially the fairytale-like Cinderella pumpkin. You can visit your craft store and create a flower wreath to surround these enchanting pumpkins, giving them a look straight out of a storybook. This fun craft can be enjoyed with your children for only a few dollars.
Sunflowers are always a great late Summer, early Fall flower.
Hydrangeas We grow hundreds of them on our property and let them dry to use in our arrangements.
Sanguisorba Obtusa, La Pimprenelle These are the loveliest flowering
‘Plumes’ that look so pretty tucked into your arrangements. The Shades vary with the maturity of the stem.
Japanese Anemones Lovely pink shades mingling amongst purple Asters in the garden and in arrangements.
Autumn Joy Sedum-with its vibrant pink hues that deepen over its long bloom time, this is a must in your garden.
Sweet Autumn Clematis is a fast-growing, beautifully scented flower that grows up a structure such as an arbor or trellis. Autumn clematis remains one of my favorite late-summer, early-autumn flowers. It is stunning.
Spotlight Sunday Guides - Out And About with Paris House
Hudson Valley, NY
On the way to the Adirondack Mountains, I stopped at The Six Bells in Rosendale, NY, for a couple of days and slept in an actual storybook. A former mining town with a history of casinos and a theater nearby, along with other quaint shops, give this little village a fascinating storied past and exciting future ahead. Every detail is well-appointed and charming, and the menu is seasonal, fresh, thoughtful, and delicious, reminiscent of the outstanding cuisine of Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. (And that is something that you will not hear me say often)
The charming little town of Rosendale is a perfect stop for a night or two in the Hudson Valley region. As you continue your journey towards the Adirondack Mountains, you'll be greeted by a vast wilderness area that is renowned for its breathtaking scenic beauty and an abundance of outdoor recreational adventures. This is a must-visit, especially during the Autumn season when the foliage is at its peak. Don't forget to explore the neighboring towns and their bespoke antique shops and boutiques.
I'm dreaming of turning a room in our carriage house into a bedroom inspired by Lamplight, which is the room I stayed in and is THE most charming.
Ryan's homemade strawberry syrup and soda, using antique seltzer bottles, turned into a delightful cocktail with fresh lime juice and Mezcal, was a refreshing treat. The Thumbelina carrots, lightly herbed with delicious fresh butter and hints of sea salt, were a culinary delight. The rooster-shaped butter, locally smoked trout, and berry cobbler with fresh ice cream were all exquisite. Another detail that truly made my stay memorable was the carefully chosen bedding, which was so comfortable that it provided one of the best nights' sleep I've had in a long time.
The Six Bells in Rosendale has left such a profound impression on me that I am already counting down the days until my return in a couple of months. The unique charm and warm hospitality of the village have left me longing for another stay.
The Waldorf Astoria NYC
The reopening of the Waldorf Astoria! Yesterday, we savored the exclusivity of Peacock Alley at The Waldorf, a cherished landmark hotel in New York City. After nearly 8 years and a significant investment of billions of dollars, the hotel has reopened its doors! The Waldorf is a special spot for us, having been our regular haunt for several years before it closed for restoration. The wait was worth it - from Cole Porter's iconic Steinway piano, affectionately named "High Society," to the exquisite clock, stunning hand-painted murals, and, of course, the renowned espresso martinis. As we stepped through the breathtaking entrance, we were greeted with a warm and gracious "welcome back home", reaffirming why New York City is our favorite place in the world! The Waldorf Astoria NYC is truly a unique and exclusive experience.
"The legendary lobby is reimagined for a new era, with its centerpiece—the 1893 World's Fair clock—returning in full splendor".
What we ordered:
Our culinary journey at The Waldorf was a delightful mix of flavors and textures, a testament to the hotel's unwavering commitment to culinary excellence. We savored espresso martinis, cocktails, the Waldorf cocktail, lobster rolls with caviar, sliders, house fries, and Waldorf salad, each dish a masterpiece in its own right. We are looking forward to revisiting and enjoying a day at The Guerlain Wellness Spa.
It was an absolute joy to experience The Waldorf Astoria NYC, a perfect Saturday in NYC.
Maine
We are excited to share our year-round adventures with you from the beautiful state of Maine. Exploring Portland to the nearby Sebago Lake region, Freeport, Falmouth, Kennebunkport, Boothbay, Perkins Cove and more! Follow along in our newsletter for our recipes, travel tips and more.
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About The Paris House
The Paris House, Luxury Lifestyle Brand
The Paris House is your one-stop-shop for travel destinations, unforgettable events, and editorial and personal fashion styling. Their floral arrangements are sourced from New York City’s Flower District and elevate the beauty of your events and hotel rooms. Michele’s international travel show, “The Paris House, Luxury Travel and Lifestyle Show”, is featured in the Paris based “Joie de Vivre Network”.
Whether designing in Rome, Reykjavik, NYC or beyond, Michele is always creating gorgeous moments for her clients and partners. The Paris House’s locations range from elaborate sets at its rooftop studio near NYC, events of all scales across the Northeast, and Michele’s historic New Jersey country home and gardens which has hosted parties, music videos, and photo shoots.
Company founder, Michele Rosenthal, has 30 years of experience and studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Travel and Tourism at Endicott College and holds degrees in Interior Design and Business Marketing. She helped launch a multi million dollar division of Saint Clare’s hospital in the early ‘90s.
Whatever your needs are, our company will make your vision come to life. We are content creators, portfolio builders and memory makers.
Michele is the Editor of Sunday Guides, Luxury Lifestyle & Travel media.