Edinburgh, Scotland, The Witchery by Edinburgh Castle, high tea at The Secret Garden, Whisky & Wine Tour with Swirl Sip Socialise, Secrets of a Scottish Sommelier, The Highlands and Lochs, The Royal Mile, National Museum of Scotland, Holyrood Palace, The Balmoral Hotel
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The Paris House, Sunday Guides, Edinburgh, Scotland, March 2024
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Castles, Palaces, Highlands, Whisky Tour, Romantic Restaurants, Chowder, Lochs, Kilts & More!
Editor’s Letter
Michele Rosenthal. Follow me on Instagram @theparishouse
I recently flew British Airways from Newark and spent a week in beautiful Edinburgh, Scotland. My driver Robert took me to The Witchery by The Castle on an impressive scenic tour to the Old Town. What a gracious thing for him to do, he is very proud of Edinburgh as he should be. Over the week I was immersed in a quaint city and surroundings, with a medieval history dating back for many centuries. I became quite fascinated with Mary Queen of Scots, all the delicious pubs, scenic drives with Lochs surrounded by snow capped mountains and sheep grazing on green pastures. There were romantic hotels with harpists and high teas and interesting architecture! This beautiful city is where the old town meets seamlessly with the new town. Walking the Royal Mile was one of my favorite things to do and walking on Princes Street from the Balmoral Hotel through the garden passing by the Scott Monument to the nearby National Gallery was lovely. I toured castles, gardens, Holyrood Palace, The Highlands, Lochs, chocolate shops, whisky tours, food tours, shopped in the countryside for kilts and tartans, North Sea, the Firth of Forth, visited museums and more. This charming city is rich in culture, lore, food, scenery and kind people. I am continually delighted to meet the loveliest people around the world on my travels. As a travel lifestyle writer and editor this means so much to me and greatly enhances the beauty and content of our Sunday Guides. Touring gardens, visiting flower shops, fashion exhibits and boutiques inspires my designs for my wonderful clients.We hope our Sunday Guides inspire you to travel and create beautiful moments in your day.
Michele Rosenthal
Edinburgh, Scotland
The Witchery By The Castle
Article by Michele Rosenthal
Upon entering the old town of Edinburgh Scotland I could see the majestic Castle perched high on Castle Rock, where it holds court above The Royal Mile, as it has for centuries. A few steps below is The Witchery, nestled in historic buildings dating back to 1595. One can imagine the history that took place here over time.
As thrilling as that was, at this moment I was here to stay at, dine at & immerse myself in the famed Witchery, lovingly referred to as a restaurant with rooms. Situated at the gates of Edinburgh Castle on the historical and beautiful Royal Mile. I could not wait to explore this historic property.
Their impressive 9 rooms are decorated in the most opulently gothic decor. Voted the most romantic hotel in Scotland & the UK. Hotels to me, have never been “just” a place to sleep, they are a place for me to feel at home, surrounded by lovely people, delicious food, candlelight & beautiful surroundings, a place to be inspired. All the better when they tell historic tales passed down for centuries.
Robert, my driver also appreciates the beauty, mystique & lore around The famed Witchery as he took me on the most scenic drive into the Old Town. We walked down a charming stone courtyard filled with flickering lights, boxwoods & pots filled with early spring flowers, quite a treat to see in late January. Paul greeted me at the door and took me to the quaint dining room where they brought coffee, juice & fresh croissants while my room was being prepared.
The piping hot coffee helped remove any possibility of jet lag, there was no time for that, I was excited for this new adventure. He was so kind, accommodating & helpful during my entire stay. We took a private guided tour of all the rooms, each brilliantly & uniquely decorated. The entire staff was delightful and truly proud of their beloved Witchery. My suite was fabulously appointed with a canopied four poster bed, a beautiful bathroom complete with an antique tub. A silver ice bucket filled with champagne, wine and bottled waters greeted me when I walked in the door.
Dining at The Witchery was a highlight. For breakfast I enjoyed a picnic hamper filled with treats in my room, and on the other days I enjoyed a full Scottish breakfast in the restaurant. There are two restaurants, The Original Dining Room and The Secret Garden, both beautiful and cozy, as you would envision them to be in Edinburgh, Scotland. Lunch was a beet terrine with goat cheese and nuts paired with local beer. Dinners were innovative, delicious and timeless. The one that stands out was the Dover sole topped with lobster. Desserts were over the top decadence of mouth watering creations paired with Champagne.
Dining at The Witchery
The Secret Garden Restaurant
High Tea at The Witchery’s Secret Garden was the pièce de résistance. Flowers and candles were everywhere with such thoughtful ambience its immediately understood why The Witchery is the most romantic. Flowers cascade around arched windows with views leading to a terrace.
I chose The Witchery Rosé Champagne Afternoon Tea with Billecart-Salmon Rosé Champagne. The silver tiered serving tray was filled with savoury tea sandwiches, scones and my favorite- Findlay’s of Portobello haggis with pineapple chutney accompanied by croque monsieur.
For Dessert I enjoyed the exclusive Witchery Tea blend, and various cakes. Dragon cake, Pumpkin gateaux with autumn spiced cream cheese, passion fruit with white chocolate trifle, Valrhona chocolate and miso caramel torte, Apple, cinnamon and vanilla brioche were all memorable.
High Tea in The Secret Garden, at The Witchery
Reserve Your Autumn Stay, The Witchery
Photo, courtesy of The PC Agency & The Witchery
Thank you to The Witchery and The PC Agency for hosting me for high tea in The Secret Garden dining room. It was indeed everything I could hope for. The Witchery cast a beautiful spell on me & I can’t wait to return.
Cullen Skink Chowder
My wonderful guide Svend recommended I go to George IV Pub, a favorite stop on food tours, off The Royal Mile, for delicious chowder!
The pub serves ice cold beer, various food and its famous chowder, Cullen Skink, made with smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions. It was delicious. The potatoes were buttery and tender the haddock was freshly plucked from the North Sea.
We recreated this at home, with Finnan Haddie from Metropolitan Seafood in Lebanon NJ, it was delicious!
Whisky & Wine Tours, Edinburgh
Contributing writer Joanne, Swirl Sip Socialise, for Paris House
Scotland is a small, rugged, beautiful country. I grew up on the beautiful west coast, looking out to islands. I moved to the east coast and Scotland’s capitol city, Edinburgh about 20 years ago. I love Edinburgh, around every corner is a slice of history, a gothic building, a winding lane or cobbled street. Generation upon generation has lived, worked, laughed and loved within these ancient city walls. Beyond the city are dramatic landscapes, castles and lochs.
I am a member of one of Scotland’s ancient Royal organizations, The Royal Company of Merchants’ of the City of Edinburgh, established in 1681. The ancient organisation is steeped in tradition and the Company has influenced trade and business in the city of hundreds of years. The Company is connected to the Royal Family with the late Queen our patron. I am honoured to use my professional Sommelier skills to use as Chair of the Tasting Committee, tasting and selecting food and wine for the Company’s formal functions, dinners and events.
In 2023 I had the privilege of meeting two members of the Royal family. In March I met Her Royal Highness The Princess Royal and in October, His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh.
Both The Princess and The Duke are charming and delightful people, very attentive and professional. Their working day is busy with events, dinners and receptions but The Princess Royal and The Duke were generous with their time.
When presented to a member of the Royal Family the correct formal address is 'Your Royal Highness' and subsequently 'Sir' for men or 'Ma'am' pronounced with a short 'a,' as in 'jam' for a lady.
When asked what to serve the Royal family, my answer is of course, English Sparkling Wine (which is quite delicious!) and Scotch Whisky!
Swirl Sip Socialise
Secrets of a Scottish Sommelier, my guide to selecting great wine every time!
I'm Joanne. I live in Edinburgh, Scotland and am a professional wine and whisky taster. I pair wines and whisky with delicious foods made with fresh, local ingredients. I write for a local magazine and you can find out more here.
I select menus and wine for formal dinners and receptions, present guided tastings and am a private sommelier. I love taking visitors to Edinburgh to beautiful restaurants in Scotland and acting as their personal sommelier.
While we don't make wine in Scotland (we make Scotch whisky instead!) we have an incredible range of wines from all over the world to select from.
There's so much choice! I created this little guide and filled it with hints and tips you can use to help you feel more confident selecting wines and trying different grape varieties.
I started learning about wine when I was in my early twenties. I knew nothing about wine, I would grab a bottle with an eye catching label or a clever name. As a result drank some truely dreadful wines!
As my knowledge grew, so did my confidence. I started considering the label and became braver in my wine selection. I tried wines with different food. and learnt which food complimented a certain wine and which foods didn't.
I've learnt a lot about wine selection, tasting and food pairing over the past 20 years. I've shared this knowledge with thousands of people across the UK and USA. I hope you find this little guide helpful. If you would like to arrange a food and wine experience in Edinburgh, please get in touch! I also host virtual wine and whisky tastings for guests in the US, please contact me for more information.
Questions I am often asked...
What is wine and what is the fuss about?
If it smells of gooseberries, does it have gooseberries in it?
The heavier the bottle, the better the wine....right?
Do I have to spend a lot of money to drink good wine?
Should I buy wine with a cork or a screwtop?
If the wine has a lot of alcohol is it better value for money?
Myths
When we buy a bottle of wine we often rely on the visual clues in front of us. Here are a few myths that need busted!
Myth: You have to spend a lot to get a decent bottle of wine.
I'm pleased to say that this is a myth! There are good, well made wines that don't cost a fortune coming from less well known countries like Romania and Hungary.
Myth: The more alcohol, the better the wine.
This is a myth! The percentage of alcohol in a wine can be a guide to the sweetness/ dryness of the wine. The lower the alcohol, the sweeter the wine often is. The quality of the wine is not determined by the alcohol content.
Myth: The heavier the bottle and the deeper the punt (dimple) in the bottom on the bottle, the better the wine.
While some great wine is bottled in weighty bottles, some bad wine is as well! The heavy bottles may be for marketing purposes rather than quality.
Myth: Cork is better than screwtop. Screw cap closures are perfect for most white, rose and red wine styles, especially for those wines that will be drunk that night or a few years after bottling.
What is Wine?
Wine is simply fermented grape juice ...but that is not the whole story. Why do some bottles of 'grape juice' sell for a couple of $'s whilst others for $$$'s? There are thousands of grape varieties, each adding its own character to the wine. Generations of growers and winemakers have cultivated the land and perfected wine making techniques.
A Magical Combination
viticulture + vinification + time
VITICULTURE
growing the vine in the vineyard
Each vineyard is unique. The soil, microclimate, weather and experience of the grower, can make or break a wine.
Vineyard visit: summer 2022. Flows and flows of grapevines! Before and after!
vinification
turning the grape juice into wine
Once the grapes are picked, we look at vinification. Here the skills of the wine maker are crucial. They manage the fermentation, sometimes sticking to ageold techniques, othertime trying something completely new. The winemaker transforms the grape juice into wine.
Stainless steel tanks! Amazing amphorae! Clay pots. Grape juice!
Time
Some wines are designed to be drunk as soon as they are bottled. Others benefit from years in cask, slowly maturing and developing complexity. Knowing what wine to age and for how long is part of the equation that creates a magical wine.
The perfect combination of vineyard, winery and time can create a magical wine.
Tips
Wine labels can be frustrating, leaving you wondering what you are buying and feeling like you are taking a risk, so you always buy the same wine or style.
Wouldn't it be nice to have more confidence? That buying an unfamiliar bottle wasn't a gamble? Here are a few tips...
Tip: Visit your local wine merchants. Usually the staff are wine enthusiasts who want to share their knowledge and passion for wine. They will guide you to the next stepping stone of your wine journey. Tell them what your budget is, what your likes and dislikes are and soon you'll be tasting something new and growing your confidence. They will like to hear your feedback on the wine they recommended and will want to recommend new wines to you.
Tip: Follow at wine critic, either someone on television - for example, Saturday Kitchen, or someone who writes for a magazine. Try some of their suggestions. Try the wine and if you agree with the critics appraisal of the wine, then try more of their suggestions and food pairings. You can read my recommendations here.
Private Sommelier Pairing Tours, Edinburgh
Discover Edinburgh's Culinary Scene, indulge in a Private Epic Tour with your Personal Sommelier.
Explore Edinburgh's charming venues, taste artisan Scottish foods paired with a selection of wine and whisky on our exclusive private tour.
Treat yourself to an unforgettable experience with Joanne from Swirl Sip Socialise, your Sommelier and local guide.
International wine and whisky tastings
Slàinte Mhath!
The Balmoral Hotel
1 Princes Street, Edinburgh
https://www.roccofortehotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/the-balmoral-hotel/dining/palm-court/
To Drink
Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Non Vintage
Champagne, France
Domaine Joel Delaunay, Sauvignon Blanc
Loire, France
Food
A pair of savoury tartlets from the Afternoon Tea menu prepared by Chef Paul Hart.
One tartlet featured haggis and the other beatroot.
The Scottish Cafe and Restaurant
The Mound, Edinburgh, https://www.contini.com/scottish-cafe-and-restaurant
To Drink
Pinot Grigio Rossato
Terre di Monteforte
Veneto, Italy
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Fantini Farnese
Abruzzo, Italy DOC
To Eat
Haggis Bon Bon with kohlrabi remoulade and mustard dressing
Aberdeenshire Butterie with Errington's Lanark Blue cheese, pickled pear, spinach and toasted walnuts.
Twenty Princes Street
https://twentyprincesstreet.co.uk/
To Drink
Single Malt whisky 15 year old Dalwhinney
Single Malt whisky 12 year old Bunnahabhain
To Eat
Whisky Baba
Vanilla mascarpone cream, mulled apples, honey granola, raspberry ice cream
Steamed Ginger Pudding with butterscotch, poached pear, vanilla ice cream.
Swirl Sip Socialise Limited
Joanne Frette DipWSET
(+44) 07403391945
joanne@swirlsipsocialise.com
Swirl Sip Socialise
The Highlands & Lochs
My wonderful tour guide Kristy, met me at The Balmoral Hotel on Princes Street. I spent the second part of my trip at The gorgeous Balmoral. From there we headed out on an adventure in her beautiful & extremely comfortable Land Rover. We drove over the stunning bridge & off to explore on a lovely scenic drive.
Our first stop was The Beatrix Potter Garden, then shopping for kilts, tweeds & tartans at The House of Bruar. We visited a distillery & quaint shops along the way.
We then continued into the gorgeous Highlands. The views were breathtaking. Beautiful Loch Tay had views of snow capped mountains off in the distance and sheep grazing on green pastures. We finished our day with savory scones & hot chocolate ganache at The Highland Chocolatier lain Burnett and a ride back to the Balmoral Hotel passing by the quaint waterfront.
The Royal Mile
The Royal Mile is an important historic part of the old Town - from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace.
Stroll by quaint shops, pubs, St Giles’ Cathedral, cafes, hidden gardens & restaurants along cobblestone streets.
Pop into a pub for fish & chips and a pint!
Stroll along the charming Royal Mile in the old town and take in all the sights & perhaps you will hear a bagpiper too!
Enjoy various styles of architecture. Shop for tartans & wools from Kiltane, Pringle of Scotland & more.
Envision Mary, Queen of Scots returning to Edinburgh Castle.
Princes Street
Enjoy a stroll along Princes street, located in the New Town built in the 18th century & forward. Passing by the iconic Scott Monument in Princes Street Gardens, dedicated to Sir Walter Scott. Then onto the National Galleries of Scotland. Enjoy various nearby gardens, Gardner's Crescent Garden, Princes Street Gardens, St Andrew Square Gardens. Then head to the Balmoral for high tea or enjoy lunch in the galleries famed restaurant.
National Museum of Scotland
A quick walk from the Royal Mile. Don’t miss the fashion exhibit.
Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle is an historic castle built on Castle Rock. Construction began in the 11th century! The castle was a Royal Residence until 1663.
My wonderful guide Svend is a fascinating & knowledgeable Storyteller. www.svenderikengh.com
Enjoy beautiful views of The Firth of Forth from the castle. The Firth of Forth, the estuary of several Scottish rivers including the River Forth. There it meets the North Sea with Fife on the north coast and Lothian on the south.
Holyrood Palace
Holyrood Palace is located at the bottom of the Royal Mile. It has been the site of the Principal Royal residence of Edinburgh since the 16th century. The historic apartments of Mary, Queen of Scots, beautiful gardens, the Queens Gallery, Holyrood Abbey are a few of the many fascinating historical sights to visit. Please note the Palace closes to the public when the Royal family is in residence. They have an adorable cafe and gift shop.
The Balmoral Hotel
I loved my stay at the stunning Balmoral. My room was beautifully decorated. The high tea is in the Palm Court & with a Harpist.
Palm Court, high tea, Balmoral Hotel
The Balmoral is conveniently located by Waverley Station on Princes Street.
Out and About with Paris House
For those local to NJ, NYC, Philadelphia area - The Beautiful Philadelphia Flower Show! 2024 PHS Philadephia Flower Show. Read more on Philadelphia here:
https://theparishouse.com/blog-1/2021/6/16/philadelphia-travel-guide?rq=Philadelphia%20
Vassar Tea & Tour of Gracie Mansion!
NYBG, Fashion & Flowers! Don’t miss Orchid Nights!
Restaurant Spotlight! The Grand Cafe, Morristown, NJ
The Metropolitan Opera, NYC
Paris House Boutique
Sponsors/Advertisers
Select Scotland Tours
Experience Excellence. With authentic experiences at the heart of our ethos, our private, tailor-made tours will take you to Scotland's most dramatic locations as well as wonderful hidden gems. kirsty@selectscotlandtours.com
Swirl Sip Socialise
Wine Tasting Events
Experience Edinburgh's Culinary Scene with your own Personal Sommelier. Discover Edinburgh’s charming venues, taste artisan Scottish foods paired with a selection of wine and whisky on our exclusive tour.
Treat yourself to an unforgettable experience with Joanne at Swirl Sip Socialise, your Sommelier and local guide.
Dream Vacations, Denise Del Vescovo
Romance, Family, and Group Travel Specialist. Travel is my passion! My mission is to provide Exceptional Customer Service and make your vacation carefree while providing the best value. Thank you for the opportunity to plan your Dream Vacation!
Skyland World Travel
Located in Hackettstown, NJ. Be part of the Skyland World Travel Family. Where it is all about you! “1 phone call (908-852-7081) for all your travel needs”.
https://skylandworldtravel.com/
Christen Holly Photography
The best part of being in New England in the fall is seeing all the beautiful fall colors. Capture these special moments with a photographer who embraces vibrant colors in photos that will last a lifetime!
Contact Christen at christenhollyphoto@gmail.com
View samples of work at https://www.facebook.com/christenhollyphotography and https://www.instagram.com/christenhollyphotography
About The Paris House
The Paris House, Luxury Lifestyle Brand
The Paris House is your one-stop-shop for travel destinations, unforgettable events, and editorial and personal fashion styling. Their floral arrangements are sourced from New York City’s Flower District and elevate the beauty of your events and hotel rooms. Michele’s international travel show, “The Paris House, Luxury Travel and Lifestyle Show”, is featured in the Paris based “Joie de Vivre Network”.
Whether designing in Rome, Reykjavik, NYC or beyond, Michele is always creating gorgeous moments for her clients and partners. The Paris House’s locations range from elaborate sets at its rooftop studio near NYC, events of all scales across the Northeast, and Michele’s historic New Jersey country home and gardens which has hosted parties, music videos, and photo shoots.
Company founder, Michele Rosenthal, has 30 years of experience and studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Travel and Tourism at Endicott College and holds degrees in Interior Design and Business Marketing. She helped launch a multi million dollar division of Saint Clare’s hospital in the early ‘90s.
Whatever your needs are, our company will make your vision come to life. We are content creators, portfolio builders and memory makers.
Michele is the Editor of Sunday Guides, Luxury Lifestyle & Travel media. https://theparishouse.com/
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